Lee keeps saying that if her parents ever give Shiraz up, Lee is first in line to adopt her!
Shiraz enjoys some beach play time with her pal Levi while staying with Auntie Lee.
Lee keeps saying that if her parents ever give Shiraz up, Lee is first in line to adopt her!
Shiraz enjoys some beach play time with her pal Levi while staying with Auntie Lee.
A question asked by many dog owners is how to best introduce a new pup to the already established canine-member of the family. The following applies to the introduction of puppies and older dogs who are ‘new’ to your home and your established dog.
First, jealousy is a human trait, not a canine trait. What dogs experience, when a new family member is introduced, is confusion or insecurity as to their place in the family. A dog who has been the center of attention may become confused and frustrated when that attention is abruptly divided, or even totally redirected, in favor of the newcomer. The dog may then “act out”, attempting to regain the attention that he has lost as a result of the newcomer. If he is improperly corrected, he may act out in a manner that is not compatible with the newcomer. Often the misunderstood dog is then religated to the back yard or a back room, which tells the confused dog that it is no longer in good standing with the family, or worse, to the shelter or streets, which tells him that he has no place in the family at all! It is important to make clear to your pup, from the start, that he is a member of a cooperative group, a family, with you as Parent and him as Child. This has nothing to do with “Dominance” and you being “Alpha”. That concept was disproven more than 30 years ago and was re-visited with the introduction of several TV personalities who still believe the discredited Dominance Theory.
Introducing a new pup to the older dog should be done gradually. The first meeting is best accomplished in a neutral place, like a park, or a neighbor’s yard. They should then be brought home together, where they are allowed to play briefly, outside the house. The pup should then be toileted, (remember that pups usually need to toilet after playing), and then gently and happily placed in a kennel. The kennel should be a good quality wire kennel. It should be large enough for the pup to stand up, turn around and lie down comfortably. It should have a soft cushion, some toys, and a biscuit. It should always be a fun place for the pup to go, never a punishment.
The pup should rest in the kennel for from 15 to 20 minutes after which time the pup is taken outside to toilet. (This will facilitate toilet training as well as introduction to the older dog.) Remember, pups also need to eliminate after a nap.
The pup is then re-introduced to the older dog with a very “up”, happy tone of voice. It is important to be neither forceful nor overly cautious about the introduction. A very positive and matter of fact attitude is best.
The play times should last a few minutes at a time, always supervised. The pup should not be permitted to annoy the older dog. Gently correct the pup and teach it to be careful, using the cue “careful”, not to injure the older dog with its sharp teeth. The established dog must be included in the play time and actually receive MORE attention than the puppy.
Be sensitive to the older dog remembering to give him as much or more attention and personal time as you always have and at least as much time as you give the new pup. Run through his training cues once or twice a day. This assures the dog that he has not lost his place in the family.
The older dog should not be permitted to “mark”, (urinate on structures around), the house, yard or neighborhood. This “territorializing” is the method dogs use to establish ‘ownership’ of the area. Have the older dog neutered, if you have not already done so. This is a good idea even if you are not introducing a new dog to the family. Neutering of both males and females lessens the incidence of mammary and prostate cancer, eliminate the possibility of uterine, ovarian or testicular cancer and makes them calmer and more loyal pets.
Always have your dog under control when introducing him/her to a new pup/dog, remembering that dogs are never totally predictable.
Finally, it is VERY important that you do NOT punish your older dog if s/he growls at the puppy when the pup bites the older dog. To do so will disrupt the natural behavior of an adult dog to correct and teach the puppy how to get on with other dogs. It will also cause your dog to associate the newcomer with punishment and so to resent it. If you console the pup and punish the adult dog, the adult will wait for the opportunity, when you are not available to punish, and may attack the pup in order to remind the pup that he considers the puppy an intruder. The results may be more aggressive than the original warning growl.
We first met Copper shortly after his new Mum, Elizabeth, rescued him from some pretty questionable circumstances. Copper and Elizabeth had a few private lessons with Lee and then Copper came to stay with Lee for boarded training. Every dog is special and each one finds his/her own place in Lee’s heart. Copper’s place was earned by his wonderful, indefatigable spirit which he demonstrated, whenever he greeted you, by a move his Mum calls the “Jack in the Box.” Copper doesn’t jump up on people, but when he sees people he bounces – up and down, on all four legs, in his absolute joy at seeing them. Even if you disappear for only a few minutes, when you return he starts the “Jack in the Box”. A few months after coming for boarded training, Copper and his Mum completed Lee’s Novice class and Copper earned his Canine Good Citizen title.
Last fall something happened to, (temporarily), take away Copper’s “Jack in the box” move. Copper suffered a herniated disk while he was being groomed, (we’ll never know what happened at Petsmart that day), and he required immediate, and very costly surgery. Copper was rushed to the Veterinary Specialty Hospital at the Helen Woodward Center, where he had three separate surgeries. Additionally, he contracted a terrible infection in his surgical incision, so he was a very sick puppy. What should have been a 3 or 4 days stay at the hospital, turned into a 4 weeks drama.
Neurologically, Copper is making a slow, but steady, recovery. He is being tended to by Dr. Robin Levitski, who just loves Copper. As you can see in the photos, his back is very arched, but after being paralyzed for several weeks, this is normal. No, he is not a camel!
Copper’s Mum is convinced that his recovery is largely due to the pool therapy he is doing with Trish Pennick (www.cuttingedgeK9.com ). Copper looks like a cute little sea turtle in the water, and after every pool session, he is able to do a a new “trick”. After the first session, he wagged his tail after 4 weeks of paralysis. Now this pup can walk!
The conflict between cats and dogs is legendary.
Indoors, cats who are raised around dogs develop survival strategies. Outdoors, cats see themselves as predators while dogs see them as prey. Running elicits the prey/chase response, even with some dogs who live peacefully with cats. This means that some dogs who live peacefully with cats will chase another cat, especially if it runs.
Wise cats learn to move slowly when dogs are around. If they are allowed outdoors, they try not to get caught in the open without access to a tree or fence they can scale.
Outside, cats are at the mercy of dogs as well as neighborhood predators, domestic and wild. (and cars!) A cattery, a harness and leash, or a cat fence, (a barrier of netting or wire specifically designed to keep your cats in or stray cats out), will allow your cats to be outside without being injured or killed. Commercially made cat fence products are available. Personally, I prefer to keep my cats safely indoors with a ‘catio’ that allows them to go ‘outside’ yet still confined to the home .
If your resident dogs and cats have already established a peaceful relationship, you probably don’t need to worry. But any time you add a newcomer to the pride or pack, you need safeguards to protect your pets from injury.
Remember, the risk goes both ways. Your dog’s jaws can be lethal to your kitty, and while the kitty likely will not kill your dog, his sharp claws can cause mayhem and easily inflict permanent damage to your dog’s eyes, even if the kitty’s intentions are innocent. If you think there is a chance your cat will seriously attack your dog, take steps to protect him. SoftPaws, which are brightly colored plastic tips glued onto your cat’s claws, can prevent damage to your dog’s eyes while you improve their relationship.
Proper introductions and good behavior management tools can greatly reduce the risk of injury to both of your kids.
The more you know about the animals you are about to introduce the better prepared you will be. When you are walking your dog on lead, does he show an unhealthy interest in neighborhood cats? Does he tolerate cats that jump into your yard or charge after them with aggressive intent? Has your cat been around dogs before? How has she reacted? Does she hiss and spit when she sees dogs walk by the front window?
If you do not have the answers to these questions, take extra precautions. However, remember that even dogs and cats who have lived peacefully with each other in a previous home may take some time and management as they adjust to a new situation.
When you bring a new dog into the house, protect your cat until you are sure the dog “works and plays well with others”. Begin, before you bring the dog home, by creating safe places for the cat to go in areas where the dog will have access. Baby gates and cat doors are a big help as are catwalks and other cat-friendly perches out of dog-reach. Be sure your cat knows how to get to and use them. Put high value treats, (‘Kitty Cavier’ is an excellent choice and available at most pet stores), in the spots where you want your cat to hide. Encourage her to explore the perches you have provided for her by baiting them with treats and catnip.
If you have a kitty door, help the cat learn to go through it by holding the kitty-door open and luring her through with a treat. Gradually lower the flap as you lure the cat through until she starts pushing it open herself.
Help her practice jumping the baby gates by tossing her favorite treats over them and watch her sail over them. If your dog is large, use a baby gate with vertical bars that your cat can get through easily and your dog cannot get through at all.
Spend time teaching the dog to “sit” and “don’t” (Better than “leave it”!) Teach him to “sit” quickly and every time you tell him to sit. Before you bring him into the house for the first time, review “sit” several times. Bring him into the house on a lead. If he is a strong dog and you doubt your ability to restrain him, use a head halter. The Halti is the preferred halter and it should be used with a separate lead from the one on your dog’s neck collar. Both should be used together.
Once your cat is familiar with her escape routes, which could take some time, you are ready to introduce your dog. In the meantime, take a clean towel to the home where the dog is currently living and rub him with the towel. Place that towel under your cat’s dinner bowl so that she becomes familiar with the dog’s scent. Rub the cat with a towel and put it under the dog’s bowl to familiarize him with the cat’s scent.
Before you take your dog into the house rub a towel on the cat then rub the towel over the dog, putting the cat’s scent on the dog. Then rub a towel over the dog and rub it on the cat. Same purpose.
Sit in a room with your dog on lead and invite the cat into the room with a happy voice and tempting treats. She needs to come in under her own power and choice.
DO NOT CARRY HER INTO THE ROOM! If you carry her into the room and she panics she may scratch or bite you badly and you will be behind the training curve. Allow the cat to take her time, even leave the room if she chooses. This should be as stress-free an interaction as possible. Toss some favorite treats near her. This ‘tells’ her that the dog is a good thing. He brings treats!
NOTE: If your cat bites you and breaks the skin, go IMMEDIATELY to the emergency room. A cat bite is far worse than is a dog bite. Cat teeth are long, narrow and very sharp. They puncture very deeply into flesh and introduce into the wound, many bacteria including the extremely pathogenic bacterium Pasteurella multocida. Many of these deep bites require surgical intervention and can result in the loss of the use of the area bitten.,… usually the hands.
Observe your dog. If he remains sitting or lying quietly watching the cat, you are going in the right direction. Be careful. Some dogs ‘trick’ cats into complacency. They will look calm but are preparing to strike. Watch your dog’s eyes, head and other body ‘language’. If his body is tense, massage him, slowly, under his ears and talk with him gently. Do not coddle either animal. If he is calm and relaxed, tell him “good don’t” and “good stay” as you give him treats. As he eats his treats, say the cat’s name and “kitty” or whatever other pet name you have for your cat. Keep the dog on lead and walk the dog around the room slowly and casually. Allow the cat full freedom to stay or run. If the cat runs, watch the dog’s reaction. The cat’s run may key into the dog’s prey drive and cause him to chase the cat. Gently remind the dog to return to the position in which he was told to “stay” and tell him to “stay”. Use NO PUNISHMENT whatsoever. This should be a gentle interaction. Use “watch” and when your dog looks at you, gently yawn at him and flick your tongue a few times. This is a calming technique that ‘tells’ your pup that the situation is ok and he should not worry.
If your dog seems ok with the cat but is interested, have him perform some ‘doggy pushups’, (“Sit”, “Down”, “Stand”, “Down” etc.) and give him treats for paying attention to you rather than the cat.
If your dog is excessively interested in the cat, distract him with “watch”, “touch”, pushups and other tricks that you’ve taught him. Walk him out of the room, have him perform one or two tricks then bring him back into the room and give him many high value treats, one after another. What you are telling him is that the cat brings great treats. Repeat this process until he starts sitting and looking for treats whenever he sees the cat. This may take many repetitions and several days.
Be patient and careful. Not all dogs will make friends with cats but most will.
A question asked by many dog parents is how to best introduce a new pup or baby to the already established canine-member of the family. The following applies to the introduction of a new baby to your home.
First, ‘jealousy’, a human trait, is not a true canine trait. What dogs experience, when a new ‘family member’ is introduced, is confusion as to their place in the family. A dog who has been the center of attention may become confused and frustrated when that attention is abruptly divided, or even totally redirected, in favor of the newcomer. The dog may then try to re-establish what s/he believes to be her place in the family, and if improperly corrected, may respond in a manner that is not compatible with the newcomer. Often the dog is then relegated to a back room, garage or yard, which tells the confused dog that he is no longer in good standing with the family, or worse, to a shelter or the street, which tells him that he has no place in the family at all! (Yes, sadly people actually do discard dogs as though they are worthless!!!) It is important to make clear to your pup, from the start, the proper order of your family. This requires some gentle confidence building and obedience training, and the establishing of yourself as parent, that is leader of the family, long before the new baby arrives.
The ‘introduction’ to the new baby should also occur before the baby arrives.
First practice “down stay” all around the house and yard, many times a day. Have your pup stay in a “down” position for 10 to 15 minutes at a time, praising her/him lavishly. Be certain that this is a happy time with your dog. Do not correct angrily when your dog breaks the stay. Gently “return” him/her to the “stay” position.
Next, get a doll that is as close to lifelike as possible. The kind that makes a crying sound is best. Take your dog into the nursery every day, weeks before delivery. Have all of the materials that you will use on your baby in the nursery. Baby powder, diapers, creams, lotions…. the works. Simulate diapering the baby with the doll. Have your dog on a “down stay”, on his bed or mat, at the door of the nursery. As you are diapering the ‘baby’, tell your pup what a good dog s/he is for staying in place. Incorporate the word “stay” in your lavish praise. Do not allow you pup to break from the stay or to whine. Praise her/him for staying nicely and for being quiet. “Good stay, Stella”, or “Good quiet, Argus”. Remember that you are praising the dog for obeying the stay cue, not for leaving the baby alone!
Teach your dog the “careful” cue. Lie on the floor on a blanket with the ‘baby’, (doll), and allow your pooch to lie quietly on the blanket next to you. If she paws at or tries to mouth the doll, make the appropriate gentle corrections to teach your dog that the doll is delicate and must be handled gently. Use the same word every time, and say it calmly. “Careful”, “gentle”, and “easy” are good words for this exercise. Choose one and be consistent with it.
Be certain not to act too cautiously when interacting with the ‘baby’. Be calm, affectionate and matter of fact so that the pup gets the idea that the baby is an important member of the family.
Next, if this is your first baby, socialize your dog with children and babies as you walk her around the neighborhood. Have your friends bring their babies to your home. The more your pup sees children and babies, the less curious and the more accepting she will be when yours comes home.
When you take your new baby home, repeat the exercises with the real baby as you did with the doll. Be very careful of your pup’s paws. Dogs often investigate with their feet and would have no idea that they might injure the baby by pawing at her. Do not punish your pup for using her feet, TEACH her to not paw at the baby!
Of course, always have your dog on lead and under control when introducing him/her to a new baby, remembering that dogs are never totally predictable.
Finally, it is very important that you do not punish your dog for her/his curiosity about the new baby. Especially if the pup licks the baby. Dogs lick babies both affectionately and because they enjoy the taste of the creams that are put on babies!
Best to not allow the dog close enough to the baby to lick him at first.
Punishing your dog for her interest in the baby can cause your dog to associate the newcomer with punishment and so to resent it.
Good luck, and congratulations!
Vaccinations are an important part of keeping your dog healthy and A Wells Trained Dog requires that all dogs are fully vaccinated before joining one of our groups. However, where vets used to recommend that all dogs be vaccinated yearly (every three years for rabies), thoughts on that are beginning to change and some vets suggest that there are dangers associated with this kind of frequent vaccination; we recommend that you consult your vet to test (titer) your dog for immunity to prevent unnessary vaccinations. For the most comprehensive information about vaccines we have found, PLEASE visit:
http://www.woodhavenlabs.com /vaccine-protocols.html
Jean Dodds is a well-known veterinarian/immunologist/hepatologist. She’s very active and has frequent speaking engagements around the world on the topic of vaccination research.
Her vaccine protocol is spelled out on the link below. She believes that the increase in canine epilepsy is likely another side effect of vaccines (epilepsy is a general term for seizures, for which the cause is often unknown.)
Click here for more information: http://www.canine-epilepsy.com /Vacprotocol.html
Getting your dog to play – It’s all a matter of “desire”!
Play is an extremely important part of dogs’ lives.
It is a means to:
There are two major types of play:
The first is solitary play with a ‘toy’. The dog’s ‘desire’ is to relieve boredom, stimulate his body and mind and relax. This is similar to a human shooting hoops with a basketball, (toy), or playing a video game, (toy).
The other type of play is interactive play with a playmate. The dog’s ‘desire’ is to build or strengthen a bond with the companion. This is similar to a human playing tennis with a companion using a racket, (toy), or physical games against an opponent, like foot races, with no equipment (toys). The ‘desire’ is the same.
As with human children, the best environment for puppies is one where there is a generous supply of novel toys always available to the pup. This is especially critical at the breeder’s home.
Take Note: The majority of problems with dogs start with the ‘breeder’. ‘Breeders’ come in many varieties from legitimate breed enthusiasts whose main concern is the welfare of the breed, to puppy mills, production ‘breeders’ and some ‘backyard breeders’ whose main concern is profit.
Puppy Mills are commercial dog breeding factories where dogs are born and maintained under deplorable conditions. No veterinary care is given to them. Their food, if available to them, is very low quality, often contaminated and spoiled. Their water is very often covered with algae, urine or other contaminants. The dogs are treated like products, not like living beings. They are crammed into filthy wire cages, as many as ten dogs to a cage, lying in their excrement, often with open sores and other untreated injuries. There are about 10,000 puppy mills in the U.S. , often with thousands of puppies in each mill! The puppies are sold on line
and in Pet Stores. These puppies are often very difficult to potty train, because they have been living in a cage all of their lives and have little or no human contact. They are often fearful which makes training difficult.
‘Production Breeders’ are only one step above Puppy Mills. Again, the dogs are considered products. There is little interest in the dogs’ welfare other than to keep them looking healthy so that they are more easily sold. Production Breeders have 5 to 10 bitches who are bred every time they come into heat. When you go to a production breeder you do not see the mother and father of the litter. These dogs are sold in pet stores and on line as well.
Backyard breeders are often friends or neighbors, one of whom has an intact (un-spayed) female and the other has an intact (un-neutered) male. Some dog owners believe that their dogs are so cute and sweet that they want to produce puppies just like their dogs! (This does not usually happen!!) Other owners think that they can sell the pups and make a few dollars. One of the biggest problem with this is that often one or both dogs carry genes for breed related diseases and maladies like hip dysplasia, von Willenbrand’s disease, entropia etc. The ‘breeders’ are usually unaware of these diseases. The unwitting purchasers of the resulting puppies are often faced with emotional pain and enormous veterinary bills, if they can afford them, or the tragic choice of putting their ‘defective’ pets to death. (Known as ‘Economic Euthanasia’) Another problem with back yard breeding is that when 10-12 puppies are born, even if homes are found for these puppies, those homes are no longer available to dogs already in the shelters, waiting for a new home. Dogs in shelters, who are not adopted, are eventually put to death because there are no homes for them. Those homes went to the puppies that the backyard breeders produced!!! If you are thinking about breeding your dog, please first go to the local shelters and walk down the rows and rows of cages. Tell each of the dogs there that you are going to produce more puppies who will take the homes for which these shelter dogs are waiting, so they will have to be put to death!!
Many owners purchase AKC registered ‘pedigreed’ dogs believing that this gives them a better chance of finding a healthy puppy. In fact, AKC ‘papers’ mean nothing more than that your dog was produced by allegedly pure bred, registered bitch and dog. Most breeders require that you spay and neuter your pups so, unless you are going to compete with your dog in AKC sponsored events, your pup’s AKC papers are of no value. They do not in any way insure a mentally or physically sound puppy. In fact, AKC papers do not even insure that the puppy is actually pure bred!!! If you are looking for a pure bred dog, be certain that you are purchasing from a well respected breed enthusiast who knows how to handle the litter for the very best temperament development of the puppies.
OK Back to teaching your pup how to play. ‘Toys’ do not have to be purchased from a store. A ‘toy’ is anything with which your dog enjoys playing. A favorite ‘toy’ is a crunched sport water bottle, with a few dry lima beans rattling round inside, tied inside a sock. Empty paper towel rolls, a soft rope with knots, braided strips of soft fabric etc.
By providing toys for your pup from the moment you meet him, your pup will learn to play competitive games with safe objects rather than with other dogs’ ears, necks and tails or with your ankles! When your pup has been introduced to inanimate toys early in his puppyhood, it will be simple to manage his ‘nipping/mouthing stage’ by supplying him with toys he prefers to your hands or ankles.
All dogs play. When attempting to set up a play program, it is important to determine
With what toys?
If you purchase a toy from a pet shop without asking your dog’s opinion, and it is one that your dog does not particularly like, it is unlikely that he will want to play with it, or you. If your dog is more interested in a toy brought by another dog owner in the park, it is unlikely that your dog will want to play with the toy you have provided.
You must ‘ask’ your dog what kind of toy he would like. Chances are he will tell you that it’s something that is fun, novel and interactive with a playmate, not necessarily something you bought from the pet shop. Watch him round the house and see what he loves to ‘steal’. If there is something in your environment that he loves to chew, that’s a good toy for him. Now don’t give him a pair of your shoes! Find something of little value to you that he loves to steal. Something that he is willing to pay a ‘penalty’, (NOT punishment!!), to keep and you do not mind losing!
The toy must be something that is valuable enough that your pup will go to great extent to get hold of it, yet not so valuable to him that he is not willing to give it up . For retrieving games, for example, the toy must be valuable enough that the dog wants to chase after it and pick it up but not so valuable that he does not want to return it to you and give it up. Be sure the toy can be safely used by your dog. Be careful it is not easily swallowed and has no sharp edges or small parts that he can remove and swallow.
Take Note: Tennis balls, one of most dogs’ favorite toys, are really quite dangerous toys!
A dog with a strong enough jaw and sharp enough teeth can puncture a tennis ball, cause it to collapse under the strength of his jaws, and swallow it in his excitement. Once in his throat the ball then pops back open and suffocates the dog. This occurs far more than most people may realize. Other dangerous toys are racketballs for medium and large dogs, and golf balls for all dogs. Again, these balls can easily become lodged in the dog’s throat and suffocate the dog. Be sure to learn dog CPR!! The other problem with Tennis Balls is that they are abrasive and wear down the Enamel resulting in need for Root Canal surgery!
When choosing a toy, keep in mind your dog’s breed and purpose. A terrier will want a high pitched squeaky toy that he can shake and ‘kill’. A Border Collie will want a ball on a rope to chase. The Staffordshire Terrier will want a tug toy to grab and hang onto. A lab will want anything that he can retrieve and bring back to you. Get the picture? Keep in mind, too, that your dog uses all five of his senses and the toy must be attractive to all five. A toy must smell, taste, sound, appear and feel attractive to your dog. It must also move well
With whom?
When you are teaching your pup to play, the best person to start him is the person who sets your dog into a wild, excited frenzy when that person comes to your home. That may very well not be you! You may have too much influence over your dog’s behavior which may inhibit his desire to play!
Where?
If you practice obedience work in a particular area, that would not be the place to teach your pup to play. If the environment is very distracting with activities/noises/smells, these distractions may be more exciting than you or the toy you are offering. An example of an overwhelming distraction is any area where other dogs are present, especially when the other dogs tend to run off with the toy!
When?
Choose the time of day when your dog is on the upward swing toward getting excited and not when he is at the peak of excitement. For example, do not wait until your dog’s supper is ready to be placed on the floor before starting your training session. He is at the peak of his excitement anticipating the imminent supper and it will be very difficult to maintain his attention. Start your training session about 20 minutes before the time that you usually start to prepare his supper. Determine whether your dog responds better in the morning or evening. Dogs are “Crepuscular”. That is, very active at dawn and dusk because these are the two times when wild dogs would be hunting. It’s a dog thing! Experiment with your dog to determine his most active and attentive time of day and start your first lesson just before then.
NOTE: Never allow your dog to play, exercise or run for at least an hour after meals, especially if she is one of the breeds most subject to Bloat and Vulvulus. Large, deep chested breeds …. Great Danes, Rottweilers, Dobermans, Standard Poodles, Greyhounds are among the most vulnerable breeds.
Now. You have the correct toy, person, location and time to teach your pup to play.
The first session should last no more than five minutes. The person who is working with your dog must be absolutely uninhibited and silly. A young person is ideal for this. After five minutes of acting like a clown, gently pet the pup and stop the game. This must be done with absolutely no frustration. Your dog will likely not join in the game for at least three days. If he does, BONUS!
Repeat the five minute play session the next two days. Five minutes each day for three days.
If your pup does not play after the third day, reduce his access to any other dogs for three days and try again. By “reduce his access” I mean do not allow them any unsupervised access to one another and no play time or exercise time together for three days.
With some breeds you will have to change the toy every two or three sessions so that it retains some novelty value. With breeds with short visual memories, Border Collies for example, the same toy can be used extensively. For dogs with long visual memories, ***Dobermans*** (no bias there ), for example, the toy must be changed often to avoid his becoming bored with the toy..
As your dog begins to enjoy the play sessions and join in the game with the toy, you will start teaching him the rules of the game. Done correctly, the game will become more exciting. Done incorrectly, the game will not be considered fun by your pup. This, and the choice of toys are the most critical steps.
For a dog who is reluctant to play, you will have to allow him to win most of the time until his confidence improves. If he compares himself against you in early games and realizes that he has no chance of ever winning a game, he may lose interest in the game early on. On the other hand if he never loses he may throw a temper tantrum and take his ball and go home if it looks like he is losing!! :-).
Use your common sense to know when to start allowing him to lose the game. Remember, allowing him to win has nothing to do with Dominance. Many uninformed ‘trainers’ will tell you to never let your dog win a game and to never play tug of war with him because that allows him to think that he is the “alpha” and “dominant” over you. That is ABSOLUTE NONSENSE!!!! Please re-read the “Philosophy” page of this site.
Now that you have determined the right toy, person, location and time to teach your dog to play, you will need a game!
The retrieve is the best interactive game for dogs. The secret here is the toy with just the right value. If too much value, your dog will not want to bring it back to you. If too little value, your dog will not want to go get it.
Session one:
Find something your pup likes to chew like a sock or slipper or toilet paper roll. When it appears that your pup is looking for mischief get the toy or article and tease him with it. Throw it a short distance and allow him to run and pick it up. DO NOT CHASE AFTER HIM.
Chasing him will make him think that you are competing for the toy and force him into taking avoiding action. He will likely take the toy to a particular spot in the room and lie down with it to chew. SLOWLY get up and move toward him without looking him in the eye. Sit on the floor, extend your arm and stroke him, gently reassuring him with your voice. Do not attempt to take the toy from him at this stage. When he drops the toy, quickly grab it and tease him with it, return to the spot from which you originally threw it and drop it. Allow him to pick it up and take it back to his “safe spot”. (The place where he took it to chew on it.) Again, walk over to him without looking him in the eye, sit on the floor, stroke him and speak to him softly. As before, when he releases the toy, grab it, tease him with it, and return it to the throwing place, drop it and allow him to pick it up and take it to his safe spot. Repeat this whole process as many times as he is willing to participate in the game. If he starts to lose interest, stop the game immediately. Offer him a treat and when he drops the toy, gently pick it up. Tell him what a good boy he is and take him for a walk or do something that he likes. The idea is to simply let him know that the game is over, not that he did something to cause you to take his toy. Play this game for two or three sessions.
Session two:
This time, throw the toy and when your pup runs to pick it up, YOU go and sit in the ‘safe spot’ where he had been taking the toy during the previous sessions. Your pup should bring the toy right to you and lie down next to or behind you to be stroked. Stroke him and tell him what a wonderful pup he is. Repeat this exercise several times. Next, move your position about six feet in any direction from the ‘safe spot’. If your pup takes the toy to the old location and lies down with it, ignore him for a few seconds then use your voice to encourage him to go closer to you. Pat or scratch the floor, your leg etc. Whatever it takes to have him want to go to you. When he goes to you do not touch the toy. Scratch him, rub him and praise him lavishly. Gently take the toy from him and throw it for him again. Repeat these sessions several more times as long as he is enjoying the game. Your pup should bring the toy to you wherever you are sitting .
Session three:
The “trading” step. When your pup goes to you with the toy, gently take it from him, praise him, and throw a second toy for him to chase.
This exercise is useful when your pup picks up anything he should not have. It is easier and safer to call him to you with the words “good boy, get it” rather than the words, “bad dog, leave it!”
Let us know how this works!
The holidays can be a happy or tragic time for your pets. It’s up to you. Here are some safety tips to keep their and your holidays happy:
Edibles:
Other dangers:
Stay alert. Keep these items out of reach of your pets. Sit or lie down on the floor of each room and look up and around the room asking yourself what would interest you if you were a bored, confused or excited dog, cat, bunny or bird. Remember that it’s not just dogs who get into trouble. Watch your “kids” closely. Don’t let them surprise you with something you never dreamed they’d get into. The holiday season can be a very stressful time for pets. Try to keep as normal a daily schedule as possible. Remind every family member and guest to check that doors and gates are closed carefully. Frightened and confused pets can wander away from home. A stay at the Animal Shelter is often not pleasant and there’s no place like home for your pets especially during the holidays. Consider a Microchip for your pet for his/her holiday gift. And, if your pet receives a new collar for Christmas or Channukah, transfer his or her license and ID tag to the new collar immediately. Most pets are returned by persons who read the dog’s I.D. tag.
The ASPCA ANIMAL POISON CONTROL CENTER = 1-888-426-4435 ext 1
The PROSAR INTERNATIONAL ANIMAL POISON CENTER = 1-888-232-8870
There is a $45 fee for their telephone consultation. They do take credit cards.
Have a safe and happy holiday season!
We got the following note from Jasmine’s owner recently. When you read it, you’ll see why Jasmine is the Dog of the Day (and Leslie, her owner is Parent of the Month for insisting on pursing this instead of just accepting what her vet said)
“Dear Lee, Thank you for your warning, during classes, about strange lumps and bumps on our dogs. As you can read below, your warning probably saved my dog’s life. My vet originally told me the lump was either folicular or a wart, as tumors are rare in a dog as young as Jasmine (9 months). We heeded your warning though and went ahead and had the lump removed despite the vet telling us it was only a cosmetic problem.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Leslie (and Jasmine)
The email below is an email that Leslie sent to Jasmine’s breeder:
Subject: Jamine info
Hi Laurie ~
Just wanted to give you a Jasmine update/warning. She had developed a small wart-like bump just above her nose for which she underwent surgery to have removed last week. After biopsy, it turns out that it was a malignant tumor. The vet believes that all was removed, but advised us to keep a close watch out for more tumors.
Just want to give you a heads up in case any of her littermates’ owners contact you about strange bumps, so you may advise them to have lumps removed immediately.
Besides that all is well. Jasmine is a beautiful girl with a sweet, loving temperament. We couldn’t have asked for a better dog!
Best regards,
Leslie
It is best to not take your dogs to the fireworks or the independence day parade.
The loud booms of the fireworks, and the horns and drums of the bands hurt their sensitive ears. The sudden flares of the rockets can frighten them. They love being with you and will put up with almost anything for that, but they do not enjoy these activities.
Please show them how much you love them by leaving them home with the television tuned to KPBS (TV is better than radio), with some toys and water and a stuffed Kong toy or two.
When you return home stay with them when you let them out for potty break. There may be some residual fireworks and they are pretty good at getting over or under fences when frightened.
Check your yard for dropped items that could potentially injure your dog.
Watch for hot BBQ coals, dropped chicken and bones, alcohol, beach fire sparks and other dangers.
Have a Happy and SAFE Fourth!!